Strange and Beautiful: A Trek Through Thailand

There we were, standing ankle-deep in water, floating down the river. Ahead of us and behind us were similar quartets of tourists, neatly lined up, floating along, not quite walking on water but almost seeming to.

This was bamboo rafting in the mountains of northern Thailand.

Of course, we weren't really standing atop the water. Our weight made the rafts float about three inches below the surface. Getting to those rafts had been an adventure in itself. First we'd hiked over the mountains from the hill tribe village where we'd stayed overnight. A gnarled old guide sang "You Were Always on My Mind" in his rich tenor, adding a beautiful, if surreal, touch. Soon we arrived at an elephant camp for the next leg of our journey.

We boarded our elephants at a sort of elephant dock, and took off on a path weaving across and through the river. Since my elephant had a baby in tow, the trip inspired as much "Awww!" as awe.

The scenery was spectacular, with palm-shrouded mountains cradling the river. Pink and white flowered trees leaned over the water, offering their shaded reflections in contrast to the sun-dappled current. Occasionally the elephants would stop to snack. The mahouts would leap down, machetes in hand, and hack off whatever plant was waylaying an elephant, creating a sort of elephant drive-through so our mounts could eat on the go.

The trip through the mountains near Chiang Mai was a testament to the resourcefulness of the Thai people. The logging that had once been their livelihood was now banned. The herds of elephants could have become a liability. By catering to travelers, both the mahouts and their pachyderm charges ended up with an easier life than the one they'd left behind.

The villagers in the mountains built tourists lodgings in the same elevated bamboo and palm-thatch style as their own homes. After hiking in, we sat on verandas overlooking the lush landscape while our guides cooked up savory local dishes from foods we'd chosen at the Strange and Beautiful: A Trek Through Thailand

There we were, standing ankle-deep in water, floating down the river. Ahead of us and behind us were similar quartets of tourists, neatly lined up, floating along, not quite walking on water but almost seeming to.

This was bamboo rafting in the mountains of northern Thailand.

Of course, we weren't really standing atop the water. Our weight made the rafts float about three inches below the surface. Getting to those rafts had been an adventure in itself. First we'd hiked over the mountains from the hill tribe village where we'd stayed overnight. A gnarled old guide sang "You Were Always on My Mind" in his rich tenor, adding a beautiful, if surreal, touch. Soon we arrived at an elephant camp for the next leg of our journey.

We boarded our elephants at a sort of elephant dock, and took off on a path weaving across and through the river. Since my elephant had a baby in tow, the trip inspired as much "Awww!" as awe.

The scenery was spectacular, with palm-shrouded mountains cradling the river. Pink and white flowered trees leaned over the water, offering their shaded reflections in contrast to the sun-dappled current. Occasionally the elephants would stop to snack. The mahouts would leap down, machetes in hand, and hack off whatever plant was waylaying an elephant, creating a sort of elephant drive-through so our mounts could eat on the go.

The trip through the mountains near Chiang Mai was a testament to the resourcefulness of the Thai people. The logging that had once been their livelihood was now banned. The herds of elephants could have become a liability. By catering to travelers, both the mahouts and their pachyderm charges ended up with an easier life than the one they'd left behind.

The villagers in the mountains built tourists lodgings in the same elevated bamboo and palm-thatch style as their own homes. After hiking in, we sat on verandas overlooking the lush landscape while our guides cooked up savory local dishes from foods we'd chosen at the open air markets in town.

Thanks to the efforts of Queen Sirikit, even the most remote locations had sanitary, if primitive, plumbing. Lengths of hoses brought fresh water down from mountain springs, where it accumulated in 50-gallon plastic drums. Each bamboo outhouse featured a porcelain squat toilet that was flushed with pails of water from the drums. At night, car batteries charged by solar cells provided electricity for light, and for CD players that filled the air with Thai pop music.

Most visitors staying in Thailand for less than 30 days don't need a visa, but there are exceptions, and rules can change. It's best to contact an embassy or a travel agent before your trip. Check with a travel agent or hotel for a reputable tour guide. Vaccines aren't required; illness can be avoided by using mosquito repellent and drinking only bottled water.

The mountains of Thailand offer fun and adventure, and a refreshing contrast to the bustle of Bangkok.
open air markets in town.

Thanks to the efforts of Queen Sirikit, even the most remote locations had sanitary, if primitive, plumbing. Lengths of hoses brought fresh water down from mountain springs, where it accumulated in 50-gallon plastic drums. Each bamboo outhouse featured a porcelain squat toilet that was flushed with pails of water from the drums. At night, car batteries charged by solar cells provided electricity for light, and for CD players that filled the air with Thai pop music.

Most visitors staying in Thailand for less than 30 days don't need a visa, but there are exceptions, and rules can change. It's best to contact an embassy or a travel agent before your trip. Check with a travel agent or hotel for a reputable tour guide. Vaccines aren't required; illness can be avoided by using mosquito repellent and drinking only bottled water.

The mountains of Thailand offer fun and adventure, and a refreshing contrast to the bustle of Bangkok.

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